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Yes it will charge 2 12 v batterys and it is a good cheap unit that works as not all do.
By John R. on March 1, 2018
You can attach an indicator light to show the charging. We think it is optional.
By Rosalie S. on September 15, 2017
You can charge two 12 v batteries connecting both baterry on battery post.
By Semi on March 2, 2018
The unit I got does use 0.05A constantly for the lights even overnight doing some "draining" of the battery. If the battery/system is a small one like 20AH battery or less (and 30 watt solar panels) that may seem like a drain on it, yet if you're charging bigger batteries like 50+AH with 100+ watt panels it shouldn't … see more The unit I got does use 0.05A constantly for the lights even overnight doing some "draining" of the battery. If the battery/system is a small one like 20AH battery or less (and 30 watt solar panels) that may seem like a drain on it, yet if you're charging bigger batteries like 50+AH with 100+ watt panels it shouldn't be that significant. The load light will stay on allowing power to go to the "load" connection until the battery voltage drops to 10.5V, then the controller cuts that off (to stop further drain on the battery which can damage it). Since your question was cut off (I know they limit the length), feel free to add comments to add details or other questions you have. see less
By Thomas H. Lawler on June 25, 2017
I've hooked up a drained battery to my truck and had a 50 amp breaker pop (showing how much power can go between batteries), so there's no way I'd use something rated for only 10 amp between such (unless you have some way of being sure you'll never have over 10 amps current flow thru it).
By Thomas H. Lawler on June 13, 2017
I did and didn't see an over charge condition. You should see the battery charge to about 12.2 - 12.6v when fully charged. When the controller is charging you should see about 12.5 - 13.5v. I have been using this one for about 1 year and it works great for me. The only thing I have found is that I don't get is... it do… see more I did and didn't see an over charge condition. You should see the battery charge to about 12.2 - 12.6v when fully charged. When the controller is charging you should see about 12.5 - 13.5v. I have been using this one for about 1 year and it works great for me. The only thing I have found is that I don't get is... it doesn't show all bars being charge but I thought it is because I'm using it with a 5w solar panel and not enough sun hours last winter. see less
By David on May 14, 2018
Ok, so what is the voltage of the panels you have? You cannot test inline voltage in this case. You can test the battery voltage separately, but NOT the entire system through this box. You have to test the voltage on the Light Bulb side WITH putting your test instruments in circuit between the bulb and the unit connec… see more Ok, so what is the voltage of the panels you have? You cannot test inline voltage in this case. You can test the battery voltage separately, but NOT the entire system through this box. You have to test the voltage on the Light Bulb side WITH putting your test instruments in circuit between the bulb and the unit connection on the Red side to test the DRAW of the light bulb. You can test the voltage from your panels if it is a 12V panel then the out put should be 12-18V which is the normal voltage from the panels. The concept if you are not familiar is that in order to charge a 12V battery (which at full charge is really 14V), you need to have panels producing from 14-18V in order to CHARGE it... as it require MORE V than what the battery is in order to PUSH in charge. It doesn't matter how many volts are coming out as it only matters that it is within range of 12-18V as the real test is the DEMAND that you are asking for i.e. is the device 12V then it can handle up to 14V and it will NOT draw any more even if feed 20V. Also, realize just in setting up any solar battery situation, you will loose up to 25% in the fluctuation of the voltage from the sun as it is NOT constant Solar power is more like drops of water it drips into the bucket over time and the battery when it is full contains the push power like a bucket to power a device. That is why you need the battery to run a device to stabilize the output and make it consistent enough to run motors etc. So, again, recheck your voltage and configuration on your panels? If you are hooking them up Parallel then you are connecting the + to the + and the - to the - so if you have 2 panels each producing 12V and 4 amps each you would end up with 12V and 8 amps. If you are hooking them up in Series then you ADD them or 12V + 12V = 24V and 4 amps. So do you see the relationship if you up the voltage by adding them together in Parallel you reduce (or half) the amperage... if you simply add the like electrodes together it remains the same 12V and doubles the amps. Go to Images on Google and search for Parallel Batteries and you will see what I am talking about. So, which do you want 24V or 12V as I believe this charge controller knows how to deal with both. This unit is very simple and graphically labeled. I believe that the order of hook up is also important from the gentleman below Thomas H. Lawler. see less
By Leseagle on May 1, 2018
The correct answer is NO. Why? Because Lithium Ion batteries have tighter voltage tolerances and the absence of trickle or float charge at full charge. While lead acid offers some flexibility in terms of voltage cut off, manufacturers of Lithium Ion cells are very strict on the correct setting because Lithium Ion's can… see more The correct answer is NO. Why? Because Lithium Ion batteries have tighter voltage tolerances and the absence of trickle or float charge at full charge. While lead acid offers some flexibility in terms of voltage cut off, manufacturers of Lithium Ion cells are very strict on the correct setting because Lithium Ion's cannot accept overcharging. This charger works great for lead acid batteries. However, I would advise against using this for Lithium Ion's. see less
By Anthony on April 16, 2018
I have the 20 amp version, the battery LEDs seem to be showing the battery charge level. Mine stays at all 3 lights most of the time (where I believe all are on at ~13V), but when I've run a load on the battery pulling the voltage down to ~12.3V I see 1 of the 3 LEDs go out. I've not taken it down to see what level i… see more I have the 20 amp version, the battery LEDs seem to be showing the battery charge level. Mine stays at all 3 lights most of the time (where I believe all are on at ~13V), but when I've run a load on the battery pulling the voltage down to ~12.3V I see 1 of the 3 LEDs go out. I've not taken it down to see what level is just 1 LED, yet that can be nice to know, so maybe I'll play with that to find out. see less
By Thomas H. Lawler on April 4, 2018
The "load" connections are always connected to the battery (which can go as high as ~14.5V) until the battery voltage drops to 10.5V, then the battery gets disconnected from the "load" (so it drops no lower). That's what the "load" connection does, so it will not keep the output at under 12V if you have something that… see more The "load" connections are always connected to the battery (which can go as high as ~14.5V) until the battery voltage drops to 10.5V, then the battery gets disconnected from the "load" (so it drops no lower). That's what the "load" connection does, so it will not keep the output at under 12V if you have something that can't handle 13-14V. see less
By Thomas H. Lawler on April 3, 2018
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December 23, 2017
It may be too early to write reviews but this review is just based on my initial observation. So far it worked as described without going into technical details. I think the setup is good for an in-expensive regulator. Instructions, clear. I like that it has a battery power indicator (3 LED's). Four star is because at night the LED lights are still on. it doesn't consume much power but still consumes a little even without a load. I have a harbor freight regulator on one of my setup and all the LED's will turn off at night (means no charging from the panel). This is just so inexpensive to pass up and try. After discounts on HF this is still about 9 bucks cheaper. If everything goes well, this will be a good solar car battery maintainer with a minimum of 15W panel. My setup for this is just a regular car battery, a 50W panel laying flat on top of my sunroom, wired with low voltage 12g wire and a 300w inverter (kinda like a UPS). I use some of the stored power just to light up my computer desk using 12v car LED lights. My other setups is another story (like you!-a mad DIY scientist). It did help power my Uverse UPS for modem and phone for an extended internet access, when the power went down.
December 12, 2017
Gets the job done. It would be smarter if its LED indicator lights shut off when the solar panel is not charging but constantly on lights are only about the same current draw as a vehicle has with the ignition off. So with a good battery its not a factor. I hooked the device to a 4.4 amp 12volt (0 to 17V) solar array and a large deep cycle battery. The load is an industrial computer fan with enough air power to dry out my shed floors after our never ending east coast storms. When not in the shed the fan circulates enough air under my home to avoid musty odors. My other battery system charges batteries that run some indoor/outdoor lights used year round. My wife stopped bitching about such "toys" after a week long power failure (hurricane Sandy) when we still had UPS power and lights well after everyone else on generator ran out of gas. . My unit worked out of the box, was pretty easy to hook up/test, and with a little Velcro easy to mount to a fire resistant surface. The load and battery voltage was stable in full sun. Its unclear if it has any fuses so I added some in line fuse holders/fuses for safety. If the unit stays working I will give this 5 stars... so far so good.
December 8, 2017
Works fairly well. Draws ~13-18mA depending upon voltage off the battery constantly. ~3mA of that is in the LED's (depending again on voltage) and the rest is just running the on-board electronics. I also wish the battery status led's were a) dimmer or b) turned off at night. I adjusted the internal pot so that the LED's turned on/off at more useful voltages (12.9V, 12.0V) The lowest LED cannot be adjusted (~9.2V). The unit will automatically disconnect loads at somewhere between 10.5-11V (which is nice for preserving standard chemistry batteries). Can't beat the price. Nice internal heat dissipator for the power electronics with proper thermal interface material. Nothing fancy but pretty well made.
By Cosmos Joseph
October 19, 2017
Stopped working in 7 days. My project consist of a 12 volt 5 watts solar panel, a 12 volt 7 amp battery, a 12 volt to 5V/2A power supply and the Docooler Solar Charge Controller. The load output worked sometimes, when it did my battery gets a full charge during the day, and supply my power supply during the night. However the controller NEVER show all 3 LEDs indicating full battery ( I tested the battery using a volt meter). Now on the 7th day all 3 LEDs stopped working and 1 to 2 volts on the load output. I then tried using it as a 24 volt setup, I got a 24V load output but still no battery level indication. UPDATE: I received a faulty one so the seller sent me a replacement and now after almost a year the replacement stopped working. No voltage on the load output. The seller quickly send a replacement but took a while to arrive because it came from China. It is working perfect, I guess I just got a faulty one the first time, I will upgrade to a 20 amps soon. The red LEDs indicating how much charge the battery has are very bright but they don't bother me, they actually gets brighter (one by one gradually) as the battery receives charge, so I can say I can "see" my battery charging.
August 16, 2017
I needed a cheap controller for a small solar panel and this one fit the bill. Initially I had an issue withe seller sending me the wrong product but they sent the right one out. Shipping took forever from overseas (wish I knew before ordering). The charge controller is fairly small and simple. It gives you a quick glance at state of charge for the battery, if the panel is charging, and if there is a load on the battery. Simple and effective. I almost like this one better than my other controller for my larger solar setup. This one is easy to use and straight forward. I love it.
By A. M.
July 23, 2017
I did a bit of research on these, CMP12's (10amp), There are many verities, i figured i would get the newer one with the good heatsink good potentiometers and a crappy micro fuse, but i got a totally different one, with micro potentiometer, the upgraded heatsink, and the original auto breaker(instead of the fuse) SO I'M REALLY IMPRESSED! I will update after i hook my 80watt panel to this and run it over the next camping trip (probably get back to the review in june) If it turns out well i'll post pictures of mine without the case so you can see what i'm talking about.
July 21, 2017
I've bought 2 of these. The first one from Yueton kept supplying over 1 amp to the battery when the voltage was 14.9. The charge light was solid, not flickering at all, just over charging the battery, you could hear it boiling. I'm sure 1 of the 3 potentiometers are not set correctly. I think I'll reverse engineer it and fix it. This Anself unit on the other hand works very well so far. The charging voltage for AGM and SLA batteries is 14.4 - 14.9 volts. This units charge light began to flicker at 14.5 - 14.6, that's a good thing. Many people are also confused about the load light. They think the unit is broken because it's lit and they have no load connected. Not how it works at all. The led will be off ( load off ) if the battery voltage is too low. If its on, you can power a load, that simple. Since I bought this the only problem I have is that they've raised the price before I could get some more. Good product at a great price.
By Matt Piekarski
July 21, 2017
I highly recoment this product. Heres why: I had a project set up to run on a small 12V motor cycle battery. My project had a small light run all night while it was dark. After the first night the battery was over dead (not damaged) . Turns out solar panels draw energy at night/ when they are no receiving enough light to put energy in. In short this is an overpriced diode, BUT I recomend it, because dispite the fact you could fix that issue with a couple diodes this is nicely set up. You have a point where you can trouble shoot what is and isnt working on a project. At the connection bridge of sorts (I am not sure what its called). There are 6 terminals +- for solar, battery and your project, because of this simple design it maybe took 10mins to instal. It also has a battery level to let you know where your battery is sitting at (with 3 leds. 3 red leds= 14-14.4V. 2 red leds =13.9-12 and 1 red led=11.9V and lower) I have a volt meter along side this, as it was already part of the project before this came along. When a new project comes about I can take it out and still have an idea on my batterie's level. Not needed for solar powered projects, but nice to have.
July 12, 2017
My cheap-o 7A controller disintegrated over time, like it was made of paper, and I needed a heavier controller anyway for my additional panels. This one is doing it's job quite well, no reverse feed at night, very little loss from panels to batteries, and the addition of contacts for LOAD are really nice to have! So far, I have zero complaints after two months of use. EDIT - 4/14/2015: After using this charge controller for a year, it is still doing its job well, but not as well as it was last year. The output Voltage last year was 13.3V, and now it is pushing 12.8 on the average day. This is still sufficient to maintain a full-charge on a vehicle's battery, but not nearly enough to efficiently charge deep-cycle batteries in a solar bank. Dropping to 4-stars
By James Alan Olmstead
July 6, 2017
This doesn't matter if you disconnect the charge controller after charging completes; but, either this model does not have a blocking diode or mine is broken, because my "conected" leds continue a weak glow after I disconnect the solar panel. I have ordered a second controller to test this problem; but, in any event, this is a great little package, especially the prong connectors and plastic shield cover. Those who complain about the "load" circuit not working probably do not know how load circuits work (only when there is no solar panel and/or when battery is fully charged). Check two controllers to verify before returning as defective. You need two for a backup anyway, so quitcherbit**in about buying a second one.
By Josh Clark
June 14, 2017
I was using the charger controller that came with my solar panels. It was one of the cheap ones with 2 DC connector jacks on each side. However these went straight to the battery and had no way to turn on/off the load to prevent over-discharging. I wanted this feature because I noticed that the lights on my shed would become very dim in the winter days due to less daylight and longer runtime (lights turn on at dark). And the battery would be discharged to about 6v. So I figured, when the voltage hits the low threshold, the controller will shut off the load for one or two days until the battery is recharged I found this one on here advertising over-discharge protection, so I took a chance. It turns out, I didn't even need the over-discharge protection. My old controller was just not charging the battery as well. The days are still short, but the LED lights seem to stay bright. I haven't tested to see if it shuts off or not, but I assume it would. Some other notes about this charger: - The construction does feel a little cheap, but that doesn't seem to affect performance. - Charges the battery better than the free/cheap controllers that come free with panels. - The instruction manual has terrible english, but is understandable. - You must connect the battery, then the panels, then the load. This is so that the controller knows whether you are using 12 or 24v.
April 19, 2017
Great little controller for my project. I use this to maintain the voltage on a old truck battery. From there I run 6 4.2 inch computer fans to cool 3 grid-tie inverters on my solar panel arrays. It took about a week to bring the battery up to full charge and go into float charge mode. I run the fans off the "load" terminals, I would have preferred that the load output turned off when the sun no longer powered the charge controller but it provides power to the fans 24/7. It doesn't appear that there is an adjustment for the "load" output. In my case it doesn't matter, the 50 watt panel used with the charge controller keeps the battery up, I haven't seen it drop below 12.3 volts after running the fans all night.
By Jeffrey Rash
April 11, 2017
This little charge controller has already been through a tough North Dakota summer- and is still working great! I thought for sure I was going to have to build a weatherproof enclosure for this as the sides are open for ventilation. I figured dirt and rain would have this system of the fritz in just days. But since this was an experimental system for solar powered pumps, I figured I might as well sacrifice this inexpensive controller to see where the limits are. To my surprise, the system has been wet, dirty and shocked hard when the 2X4 it was attached to fell over in a rain\wind storm. So far, it still works perfectly. It appears there is some sort of coating on the circuit board that insulates it from the environment! Whoever built this understood it's a field unit and designed it accordingly. The screws on the base can be tightened very tight to hold wire connectors securely- without stripping or breaking the device. The screws are made from plated metals to prevent corrosion and the base where the screws attach to is metal too. No worries about breaking this device with field use when you really need to torque the wires down hard. This has hard metal where it counts! The unit comes with two open holes on the side for screwing it onto a piece of wood. (Or you could even tack it on with a nail.) The drawing for connections is universal and obvious. If you can put in a car battery, you can install this with a solar panel and batteries. As to it's ability, I paired this with two recycled 8AH 12V Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) batteries. It does a better job charging these than my expensive battery "conditioner" that's 20 times bigger and heavier than this controller. It's meant to be paired with a solar panel and if you are looking for its match in ruggedness and price, check out the ECO-WORTHY 20 Watts Epoxy Solar Panel I reviewed. I got really lucky and found two very inexpensive systems that were both ideal matches for my tough applications. If you are looking for systems to use outside in a garden or farm environment, I recommend these two systems! Put the Eco-Worthy 20 watt epoxy solar panel (crazy tough- I seriously abused mine and it looks brand new,) with this controller and keep any small scale battery array or starting batteries fully charge all the time. Auto-detects 24V and 12V battery arrays, measures their charge state and decides to charge them when their is excess power. It also supplies the load with the solar cell when their is excess power and it won't let the batteries discharge below a recommend state while powering the load! That means it powers the load from the batteries at night and will turn the load off once the batteries reach their discharge point. So this is much more than just a charge controller! It's a smart load controller too!!!!! Great for fountains, security\gate systems, outdoor video, cars\trucks\tractors\mowers\motorcycles\ski mobiles or any other vehicle that will sit a while and needs to have it's battery charged. My application is for a small 12V water pump in garden. (Think small waterfall pump.) 350mA continuous water pump 24X7. Still going strong after a months use!
By CDP's Onceagain habit of purchasing
April 8, 2017
I'm setting up a battery system and an inverter to power some AC devices at my dock and this will control a 50w solar panel to charge up and power a couple marine deep cell batteries. Will connect a light to run for a few hours every night to give the system a load so the solar cell can recharge daily. When charging is done, I'll run the light for a few hours while it is still light then into the evening for collecting bugs near the water. Should attract some minnows and fish. We'll see how that works. This Patuoxun 10A 12V/24V Solar Charge Controller Solar Panel Battery Regulator Safe Protection seems to work for my system and will hide in the storage box under the solar panel facing southwesterly.
April 7, 2017
Seems to be working just fine. See people complaining about this killing batteries when still attached to battery and put into storage where there is no light. It does have 3 LED lights that will continuously stay on to indicate battery charge level.. Not sure if thats strong enough to nuke a large battery eventually but I suppose its possible. The smart thing to do, is add some male and female quick disconnect connectors in between all your wires so you can disconnect the battery from the Charge Controller when storing. You should always disconnect form this device when charging from a different source also. Just be smart and you wont have the problems you see on the 1 star reviews here.
June 20, 2017
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June 20, 2017
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