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Questions & Answers
There is a little barb on the pin you moved. It has to be re-tensioned outward (I use a razor or xacto knife). Gently pry it out just a small amount then insert it into the white connector so that it will click into the slot and lock.
By Rob on May 1, 2018
I believe you can just replace the contact or use one of the other style connections vga for example
By Palmero on May 2, 2018
this should work Portta AV/CVBS Composite S-Video to VGA Mini Converter upscaler support 1080p
By anton f calta on April 13, 2018
If you still have a radio shack near you that would be a good place to start. Otherwise they are cheap you could order another and have a back up. Good luck.
By Auggie on March 7, 2018
I use these to convert video from Commodore Amiga and Commodore 128 (digital RGBI - very similar to CGA) computers for VGA. For the Amiga, a 23-pin to 15-pin cable is required, with the Amiga's CSYNC (pin 10) being fed to the GBS8200's H+V/CSYNC pin. For the Commodore 128 or other CGA devices, an intermediate device … see more I use these to convert video from Commodore Amiga and Commodore 128 (digital RGBI - very similar to CGA) computers for VGA. For the Amiga, a 23-pin to 15-pin cable is required, with the Amiga's CSYNC (pin 10) being fed to the GBS8200's H+V/CSYNC pin. For the Commodore 128 or other CGA devices, an intermediate device (known as a "Video DAC") is required to correct the colors sent to the GBS8200 (this is known as the "yellow/brown and black/dark gray" issue). There are cases available for these boards, if you search for, "Commodore VGA Module." So, for CGA, you would require a Video DAC (BIT-C128, GGLabs CGA2RGB, etc.) AND a GBS8200 and the appropriate 9-pin cable to connect from the CGA device to the DAC, and then connect the DAC to the GBS8200. see less
By W on February 20, 2018
I had the same problem - gave up and got one that works at a local electronics store
By Dave on January 31, 2018
Yes it will. The 5 pin plug posts on the one side labeled R G B take composite HV negative sync on pin 1 in the corner. I think it can be fed in on the gray H wire on the harness too. However, inputs are vga analog level .7v p-p. To run from a TTL 5V p-p like IBM CGA would require a signal level adaptor in addition.
By Larry G. on January 19, 2018
This works with an eight liner or poker board gaming machine.
By Audrey Barnes on January 17, 2018
Are you sure it isn't the monitor that's failing? That is, do you see this behavior with the GBS8200 and another monitor? Also, is the power getting to the GBS8200 consistent?
By W on December 3, 2017
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based on 52 Customer Reviews
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June 20, 2019
June 20, 2019
I bought this to be able to use the old Amiga monitors and the newer LCD monitors, it does not have a manual, but YouTube Search can give you a lot of information about how it works. I found the pin information by searching the Amiga GBS 8200 website. I have an old Amiga monitor cable, I just need a 9-pin D-sub connector, some solder and a 5-volt, 2-amp power supply. After doing this work, I install everything on my LCD monitor. Have a very good image Keep in mind that this is just a table without a box. It also needs a 2-volt, 5-volt power supply to power the card.
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December 21, 2017
It's very affordable, and it works for the most part. Once you get the menu settings adjusted to bring in your picture it seems good and solid until you power off your source device sometimes, then next time you turn it on, it may give you a picture, or not. You may have to cycle through the resolution modes and/or powercycle the gbs8200 to get it show a picture again. Slightly annoying, but not the end of the world. For the extremely low price, it's defiantly worth having in your inventory of video adapters for various needs or testing. You may need to use a lm1881 sync stripper in your input feed for this to lock on to the signal, so don't be discouraged if can't get a sync lock without one right away, as you may need to build the circuit or buy one ($20ish either way)... I needed to add the lm1881 for my MSX to sync with the gbs8200 properly, but not with some of the other consoles I've tried. I also have a framemeister xrgb, and yeah the xrgb is way better, has no issues locking on to my MSX without the use of a lm1881 stripper. But those are ~$400 and this ~$20 so no complaints and they can't really be compared as people often try to do, because they have different primary functions and the GBS8200 is essentially Free when you compare the pricing to an XRGB, so they should not ever be compared directly. It has RGB trimmer pots to adjust the colors accordingly but, using a colorbar generator input I found that they did not really need to be messed with, but it's a great addition that you can adjust if required. Bottom line if you are looking at these, you have a use for it, and for around $20 it's worth have around for testing retro computers, consoles, or arcade pcbs. Just keep in mind sources are very different in the sync signals they output and may get varying success with this. Be sure to try combinations of H/V/S inputs both with and without an LM1881 stripper, and different power supplies as well because the board seems to be somewhat picky about the quality and amperage of the psu being used. I'd break it down to 3 stars for the finicky settings/menu and loss of locking on a picture when resetting power on the source input, 4 stars for picture quality once dialed in, and 5 stars for price/value. This is the MOST AFFORDABLE solution for using 15hz rgb on a vga monitor. There is nothing cheaper that is anywhere close to this quality.
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